Being
in the Stade de France attack was scary. So is France’s future/Joel Dreyfuss is a former managing editor of The Root.
The
Washington Post | 15/11/15
My
wife and I were among the thousands as the nearly-full 80,000-seat Stade de
France in Paris for the France-Germany game when a loud explosion behind us
interrupted the good-natured cheering in the stands around us about 15 minutes
into the match. I thought at first that it was a firecracker — a very big one —
because it seemed so close. What I had actually heard was a suicide bomber
blowing himself up outside the stadium several hundred yards and several levels
below our seats. Two more explosions and two more suicides would follow.
There
was no announcement to spectators, and the game went on — although, we learned
later, French President François Hollande was quietly evacuated. I couldn’t get
onto the Internet on my cellphone, and since most people seemed to stay in
their seats I decided it wasn’t a big deal. But my wife noticed that a number
of people in our section left at halftime and didn’t return, even though the
score was only 1-0 in France’s favor. I finally got a text message during the
second half mentioning the explosions at the stadium and the shootings in
Paris. The death toll at the time had reached 20, just a fraction of the more
than 120 that would result from the coordinated terrorist attacks that hit six
sites in the French capital.
We
have made Paris our home for the past four years after several decades in New
York, and we are acutely aware of its (and our) vulnerability. Just 10 months
ago, terrorists killed 12 in an attack on the offices of the satirical weekly
Charlie Hebdo. Several others were killed a day later in an assault by a gunman
on a kosher supermarket.
But
if those attacks were motivated by identifiable (and unjustifiable) political
or religious reasons, the ones on Friday night are more frightening for their
nebulous focus. They were more than reactions to perceived religious insult or
expressions of crude anti-Semitism. The targets were diffuse, undifferentiated
— random victims selected simply for their availability.
Paris
is a compact city compared with New York, and you quickly become familiar with
its various neighborhoods. Earlier on Friday, we had lunch at a Korean
restaurant not far from the restaurants and the concert hall where the
massacres took place. I had been to a concert at the Bataclan a couple of years
earlier.
Even
more frightening is that France was already on high alert. Some months ago,
while researching a book on my Haitian family’s Jewish roots, we took a walking
tour of the 9th arrondissement, which adjoins the 10th, where most of the
killings took place. In the aftermath of Charlie Hebdo, we were struck by the
conspicuous presence of armed soldiers posted at identifiable Jewish
institutions, synagogues and media companies.
We
have also noticed more careful attention at the borders. On a trip to London
last month, our U.S. passports were not enough. For the first time, we were
asked to show our residence permits, roughly equivalent to green cards. And on
a trip to Florence in the spring, the return night train was halted for several
hours at the Swiss border for a check of papers of every passenger on board. A
young Arab man and a south Asian man in our six-compartment coach were taken
off the train.
There
is no guarantee against terrorism. We still love Paris, and we hope that it
will regain its exuberant and graceful approach to life. But the major stores
are closed today. Authorities have urged Parisians to stay home. A gathering to
celebrate a visiting friend has been canceled, as well as a lecture at the
Sorbonne I planned to attend. Parisians will inevitably eye each other with
heightened suspicion. La belle vie seems more like a wish today than reality.
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